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Flooring is one of the final
touches added to the interior of a home. It is one of the most important
touches that are made. It can set the attitude of a potential buyer, it can
speak volumes about the builder and is a sure sign of quality that is or is
not put into the home.
The 4 major choices that are; Carpet, Vinyl, Tile and Wood.
Carpet
Types of Carpet Fiber
Nylon
The largest selling type of commercial carpet consists of nylon
pile yam. Nylon carpet has developed and improved over the years. Each
succeeding breakthrough in nylon carpet manufacturing is called a
"generation." The five generations of nylon carpet are:
Generation 1
Delustered or dull fiber. Round fiber in cross-section.
Generation 2
Soil-hiding. Multi-lobal
or multi-sided fiber in cross-section. These fibers produced static
electricity.
Generation 3
Anti-static, multi-lobal, soil hiding.
Generation 4
Stain and soil resistant. Covered with a coating of fluorocarbon similar to
Scotchgard or Teflon. Anti-static, multi-lobal, soil hiding.
Generation 5
Stain resistant, anti-microbial, anti-static, multi-lobal, and soil hiding.
These fibers are anionic or negatively charged and should be cleaned with
anionic or non-ionic cleaning solutions (not cationic solutions). Dry
cleaning solvents may cause the stain repellent to lose its efficacy.
Polypropylene (olefin)
A synthetic
pile yam fiber used extensively for outdoor carpeting.
Polyester
Is an inexpensive carpet pile yam that is used principally in
residential installations.
Wool
A minor (1% of the market) but important fiber in carpets is the
oldest carpet fiber, wool. Wool is beautiful, expensive and must be
maintained properly and carefully.
When
cleaning wool carpet, extreme care should be taken to avoid over-wetting and
high alkaline cleaners. Improper chemicals on wool carpet cause "alkaline
browning discoloration." Browning is an easily remedied condition when a
"brown‑out" treatment is applied to the carpet. Over-wetting a wool carpet
can cause jute bleeding discoloration from backing yarns used in carpet
weaving processes.
When
cleaning wool carpet, extreme care should be taken to avoid over-wetting and
high alkaline cleaners. Improper chemicals on wool carpet cause "alkaline
browning discoloration." Browning is an easily remedied condition when a
"brown‑out" treatment is applied to the carpet. Over-wetting a wool carpet
can cause jute bleeding discoloration from backing yarns used in carpet
weaving processes.
Carpet Types
Today's carpet market is
dominated by two main varieties:
Loop Pile,
in which individual strands of yarn are pulled through the carpet backing
twice to create a small loop.
Cut Pile,
in which the loop is cut at the top, leaving tufts of yarn that stand
straight up.
The look and feel of a carpet will depend on the type of fiber used, the
density of the tufts, and the degree of twist in each strand.
Carpet manufacturers have developed many ingenious ways to combine those two
methods to create new more attractive or more durable carpets. Here's a
breakdown of the most common styles on the market today:
Cut Pile Carpets
Cut pile carpet is typically more durable than loop pile and can be sheared
in different ways to create a variety of textures and looks.
Velvet or Plush - Smooth, soft and elegant. Carpet pile is cut
several times to create a luxurious, velvety sheen that shows every
footprint. Ideal for formal areas such as living rooms.
Saxony
- Similar to velvets but not quite as smooth. Soft texture created by
twisting fibers tightly, then straightening yarn with heat. Retains foot and
vacuum marks.
Textured - Textured cut pile is the top-selling type of carpet on
the market. Carpet pile is twisted and crimped to create a multi-coloured
look that hides footprints but retains its soft feel. Ideal for casual
living spaces with moderate to heavy traffic.
Shag - The retro look from the 1960s is back in both practical and
psychedelic styles. Shag uses a longer tuft and a thicker yarn. Creates a
casual atmosphere in a family room or child's bedroom.
Frieze - Tightly twisted with short, curly fibers that hide
footprints. Can be used to create geometric or scroll patterns. Perfect for
heavy traffic areas.
Loop Pile Carpets
Long lasting and easy to clean, level loop pile is increasingly popular.
Carpets with short, densely-packed pile block out dirt and are well suited
to high traffic areas. Longer loops can give carpet a luxurious appearance.
Berber - Berbers have thick yarns and are often distinguished by
their 'flecked' appearance, which is excellent for hiding traffic marks.
Extremely popular these days and available in a wide range of tones and
patterns, in both wool and less costly synthetics.
Cable - Soft, heavy yarns with lots of twist and a casual look. Good
for medium traffic areas, cable is synonymous with comfortable, casual
living.
Sisal - Twisted synthetic yarns that imitate the hardy, woven grass
feel of aboriginal crafts. Tighter than berbers, with a stiff feel, sisals
are good for high traffic areas and come in solid and fleck tones.
Multi-Level
Loop Pile Carpets
Two or three different loop heights are used throughout the carpet to
create random patterns or geometric images. Attractive textures, and good
for casual high traffic.
Cut and
Loop Pile Carpets
Different types and cuts of pile are combined to allow for a variety of
textures, sculptured effects and colour combinations. Good for hiding
footprints.
Types of Carpet Pad
Carpet cushion, or "pad," is
available in three basic types: foam, fiber, and rubber.
Each type of carpet pad has several different varieties and constructions.
The type and thickness of cushion you need varies according to traffic
levels and carpet patterns. Bedrooms and other areas with light or moderate
traffic, for example, can use thicker and softer carpet cushion. Living
rooms, family rooms, hallways, stairs and other heavy traffic areas require
thinner and firmer cushion.
Consult your carpet dealer to help you decide the best carpet cushion for
you.
The Carpet Cushion Council describes the three different types as follows:
Foam Carpet
Cushion
Generally
speaking, foam carpet cushion comes in three recognized, clearly different
varieties:
Prime polyurethane foam is a firmer version of the same cushioning
used in upholstered furniture, mattresses, and automobile seats. Two liquid
ingredients are combined to form a large mass of foam, which is then sliced
into sheets for use as a carpet cushion.
Bonded polyurethane foam (sometimes called rebond) is quite unique.
You cannot mistake it when you see it, because it is formed by combining
chopped and shredded pieces of foam, in different sizes and usually
different colors, into one solid piece. It frequently has a surface net for
ease of installation and improved performance.
Bonded foam is one of the most amazing recycling projects of all time.
Nearly all the scrap foam in the U.S., and some from other countries as
well, is utilized to make bonded cushion. This recycles waste which would
otherwise be thrown out, and it eases the strain on our landfills. Moreover,
bonded foam is itself recyclable.
Froth polyurethane foam is made with carpet backing machinery.
Liquid ingredients are applied, either directly to the backs of some carpet
styles, or to a non-woven material (for making separate cushion). They reach
and form a thin, dense foam which is particularly useful in commercial
applications with wide expanses of carpet.
Rubber
Carpet Cushion
There are
two basic types of sponge rubber carpet cushion:
Waffled rubber carpet cushion is made by molding natural or
synthetic rubber. Heat cures the rubber and forms a waffle pattern. This
variety produces a soft, resilient cushion whose luxurious feel is
particularly useful for residences.
Flat sponge rubber is a firm, dense carpet cushion which has a flat
surface and is normally used in large-scale commercial applications and with
loop type (or Berber) carpet.
Rubber carpet cushion manufacturing processes can be varied to produce
different levels of density and firmness. The usual measurement is the
weight in ounces per square yard.
Fiber
Carpet Cushion
Foam and
rubber carpet cushions are produced from new and recycled materials. Fiber
carpet cushion, on the other hand, uses existing fibers (both virgin and
recycled, and either natural or man-made fibers) which are interlocked into
a useful sheet of felt. There are two distinct varieties of fiber carpet
cushion:
Natural fibers include felt, animal hair, and jute (the material
used to make some kinds of rope and heavy burlap bags). This is one of the
oldest types of carpet cushion, dating back to the earliest days of
machine-made carpet.
Synthetic fibers include nylon, polyester, polypropylene, and
acrylics, which are needle-punched into relatively dense cushions which have
a firm feel and, as with other types of carpet cushion, can be made in
virtually any weight, to stand up under light, medium, or heavy traffic,
which is how they are usually classified.
Special
Notes
Berber
carpet is becoming increasingly popular, and needs a thin, firm carpet
cushion. When buying this type of carpet, be sure that the accompanying
cushion has been specified by the manufacturer as suitable for Berber
carpet.
Vinyl Flooring
We do very little vinyl
flooring due to the fact it does not last that long. While most vinyl
flooring can be installed between $2.00 - $3.00 per square foot it damages
very easy, the finishes are not that great regardless of what the
manufactures state (read the fine print on all vinyl flooring).
Vinyl flooring is either
glued down or free floating with the edges and seams glued and stapled.
Most of the manufactures
require a smooth underlayment, such as luan, to be installed in order for
the warranty to be be valid.
As with most flooring,
preparation is the key in getting a well laid floor.
Tile
I love tile for wide
selection of choices that are available, the durability that is offered with
this product as well as the wide variations of style and patterns that can
be obtained when using tile.
Tile has been around for
thousands of years. While the substrate materials have changed over the
years, the method and principle is the same. I have used various substrate
products such as Hardiboard and Durrock. These products are fine however
they are heavy and labor intensive. Another product that we have been using
is called Schluter Ditra.
Schluter-Ditra is a
polythylene membrane with a grid structure of squares that resemble a waffle
design. It is bright orange in color and very light and easy to use. Its
height is 1/8 inch thick and comes in rolls that are 39 inches wide. There
is not nailing or taping necessary. Just use thinset to secure to the
existing substrate. Once the Ditra is in place you can start tiling
immediately. The product is slightly more expensive then Hardiboard or
Durrock however it is easier and quicker to use. I also believe it does a
better job.
Replacing a tile that has
been installed on Ditra will be a convincing experience that the product
works great. If do you have to replace a tile, then the best way to do it is
to cut the grout joist loose from the tile and then use a knife to cut the
Schluter Ditra itself. DO NOT try to pry the tile away from the Ditra.
Becareful not to chip adjacent tiles while replacing the broken one. I
typically will use a hammer and chisel to remove the broken tile only AFTER
I have already cut / sawed the grout joints around the broken tile. Once
the Ditra has been cut and pulled away, install a new sheet of Ditra and
then add your tile afterwards.
When doing very small jobs or
replacing a tile, it is best to use a quick drying thinset. You can use a 60
minute thinset and be ready to grout there after. Keep in mind that even
though it may say 60 minutes, working time is about 5 - 10 minutes. This
type of thinset does set up fairly fast, again use it for small jobs. Allow
the thinset to cure as directed before grouting
Wood Flooring
Wood flooring is another
product that has been around for a long time. Contrary to my tree hugger
friends, we have more forrest in this day and time then at any other time in
recorded history. The lumber industry is not made up with a bunch of morons
that are in a race to deplete a product that makes them money.
Species of wood will vary
from soft woods such as pine and spruce to your more durable woods such as
oak, walnut, hickory maple and ash. There are hundreds of species to chose
from but the most common used in the US are Oak and Maple. Both are highly
durable with Maple being slightly harder however Maple does not stain very
well.
Solid or Engineered,
Unfinished or Finished?
Solid wood flooring is that
which is wood through and through. Typically it comes in 3/4" thicknesses
but is also offered in smaller thicknesses such as 1/2".
The beauty of solid flooring
is that it can be sanded many times over. The downside of solid flooring is
that if you live in an area where humidity levels rise and fall throughout
the year, your floor will likely "cup" (swell) during the summer and spread
(shrink) during the winter.
In the summer their is higher levels of
humidity that still get
into the house which in turns gets into the flooring causing it to cup or
swell around the joints. During the winter its just the opposite effect.
The alternative is to use an
engineered wood flooring product. Thickness will vary from 3/8" - 9/16"
thick. The actual layer of wood is often less than 1/8" thick with the
subsequent layers being plywood glued together in perpendicular directions.
This type of wood flooring is
often glued or stapled in place. There is less problems with swelling and
shrinkage due to its construction and thinner layer of finished wood. The
downside is that you rarely will be able to sand this product more then
once.
I advise my clients to
determine if the swelling and shrinkage is going to be an aesthetic problem
for them down the road, if the answer is an affirmative then go with the
engineered product.
On the topic of finishes,
engineered products are always pre-finished. One thing to remember is that
the factory finish more often then not unable to achieve or duplicate. Check
warranty information prior to refinishing a prefinished product.
Unfinished products are
relegated to solid wood flooring. Although you can get a prefinished solid
wood product, if you are trying to match a certain stain then unfinished is
your choice.
Most unfinished wood flooring
products will be finished with a polyurethane that should consist of at
least 3 coats.
All wood flooring products
should acclimate to the room in which it will be installed for several days
prior to installation.
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